Plant Types

Like humans, plants are dynamic species. They may be classified in different ways, such as the structure, the years they live, how they physically appear and so on. Here are the most general categories known of them for easier identification:

Cacti (Cactus)

Cactus is a drought plant. It can live in the hottest and driest places but may die in very wet areas. It has green, succulent stems where it stores water and spines all over them for protection against other species.

Flowers and Herbs

Herbs have many uses in everyday life. Among these are for medicinal, culinary, and spiritual uses. In most medicinal uses, all parts of herbs are used. The same is true when used for spiritual functions. But in culinary, only the leaves and/or flowers of the herb are usually used.

Shrubs and Bushes

These types of plants can be distinguished by its height. Shrubs and bushes are usually less than 6 meters tall and are woody. They may also have a lot of stems and covered with flowers of all shapes and sizes.

Trees

Trees are the harder version of shrubs and bushes, and they are available everywhere in the world. They are tall, huge, and highly useful in everyday life. Trees are necessary in preventing any chances of soil erosion and responsible for generating clean oxygen that we humans use to breathe.

Vegetables

Vegetable may sometimes be classified under shrubs, bushes, or herbs due to its structure but the name is naturally used as a culinary term. Vegetables are parts of plants like flower buds, stems, seeds, and fruits among so many others. They are edible and have many uses in culinary dishes.

What Dendrobium Orchid are You Growing?

There is another type of orchids my mom grows in her garden, and this time it is white and it blossomed completely just today. My mom calls it Dendrobiums (pronounced den-dro-bee-urn). She says this one is specie that grows best in the kind of climate we have—more than half of the year with sunlight. I took her word for it, but I dug deeper (as usual).

I have come across several species of Dendrobium. There are ones that originated from the South East Asia, stretching from Northern India to islands off the East coast like New Guinea and Australia like Polynesia. The climate in these areas is always hot at sea level and is without any seasonal variation. If that is so, our white Dendrobiums might have been gotten from these species.

But I have also come across a different set of Dendrobiums. These species originated from the south of the Tropic of Capricorn and the north of the Tropic of Cancer. These areas have access to greater range of climate, including colder and drier winters and warm wet summers. To grow the Dendrobiums at their best, the area where they originated should then be known.

Dendrobium, the second largest orchid genus

To date, more than a thousand species of Dendrobium are known but there are still a lot more that are in the process of discovery basically in the highlands of New Guinea. This makes them the second to Bulbophyllum, the largest orchid genus in the world.

Both the shape and form of Dendrobium stems and leaves come in different size, style,a and color. What makes them all alike is the flowers’ pattern however varied their range of size, from tiny to huge. Every Dendrobium has the base of its sepals fused to the column and the lip base’ foot, thereby forming a mentum or 'chin' that generally houses its nectar.

Scientists have used three cultural headings to categorize Dendrobium. They are the Nobile (pronounced no-bill-ay) type or Himalayan plants, New Guinea plants, and Australian plants, here are some of the characteristics that make each of these plants distinct:

The Nobile or Himalayan Dendrobiums

Dendrobiums originating from Himalayas are the easiest to grow, but they are also the most difficult to bloom on a regular basis. Once they bloom, their flowers are remarkable in colors that range from white to purple and pink. The lip is also spectacular with its often beautifully marked contrasting colors, making the entire flower a magnificent specimen to watch.

There also those that are in colors brown and yellow, but lately, Yamamoto hybrids are getting a lot of attention for their rainbow colors.

So far, these species are grown to their best in warm with bright, cold but dry winters. But to ensure that you are growing them at their best, take note of their culture:

November to February

Daytime temperatures can drop to 40° - 45°. During these months, they should be provided with plenty of light and air movement but not water or feed.

March to May or June

These months are warmer and moister in conditions. These are the times when Dendrobium buds develop and then new growths tend to appear. Sparingly watering the orchids until the new shoots have grown their good roots is best.

June to November

These months are warm and very wet, which is associated with Monsoon. Low strength, high nitrogen feed should be administered in the months of April and May. When maximum growth is being see, feed weekly. In November, feed the orchids with high potassium.

Tip: To get flowers from Himalayan Dendrobiums, you need to dry and cool them during the winter. Dendrobiums from Himalayas’ lower altitudes need less harsh winter but still dry.

The New Guinea Dendrobiums

Growing New Guinea Dendrobiums is a bit of a challenge, but there are a few species that can be grown with ease. Among these are the Dendrobium oberrans in cool climatic conditions, D. lawesii or D. antennatum in intermediate climatic conditions, and D. atroviolaceorn or D. bigibbum in warm climatic conditions, and thus, they are best for those who have just begun enjoying planting orchids for a hobby or business. Save the more challenging ones for later.

Two of the most outstanding species known from this area, although they are also found in Australia, are D. bigibbum (D. phalaenopsis) and D. Canaliculatum. The former can often be located growing on rocks, while the latter on the paperbark tree trunks.

The climate in the area varies with altitude. The mountainous areas offer cool, wet misty nights and mornings followed by warmer bright days. The exquisite cool and intermediate miniatures like D. cuthbertsonii grow in these places. They should never be left to dry and without dilute fertilizer. The river valleys between the mountain ranges of the area are warmer and wetter. These places house the most exotic D. lasianthera of the Sepik River basin and many Latouria types with longlasting flowers. They all need generous feeding and watering all year long. The southern plains are wetter and very warm all year through. There is also seasonal rainfall variation with a wetter summer and drier winter in the area.

Australian Dendrobiums

Australian Dendrobium Kingianum and relatives are the easiest to grow from this area. They grow their pseudobulbs or canes at any length, from 5cm. to 30cm. Tall, and they are thin, spindly and tough. They have 2 to 4 leaves atop each cane that are narrowly oval. They bloom in loose sprays at the tops of old and new canes during late winters and early springs. There will be two to ten flowers in shades of purple or pink on each spray, each measuring 1- 3 cm. across. The can also grow taller and bloom with yellow, cream or white flowers.

The Austrian Dendrobiums are so easy to grow that they often regrow on their own. Potting is therefore necessary to get new plantlets or keikis moved from their parents. Just make sure that this is done after the plantlings developed their roots completely. You can also choose to leave them where they are and allow them to blossom together with their parents. For their culture give intermediate temperatures and drier conditions than other Dendrobiums. Spray once a week and water generously in the spring and autumn with dilute feed. A few cold weeks in winter (down to 45°F), will encourage flowering.

Potting

Dendrobiums can be replanted in small pots where their roots can be confined. You can find different potting beds for this in the market, but youo can also make yoour own out of bark, perlag and charcoal mixture. This trio makes an easy drain for your orchids.

When the potting bed becomes soggy or full of roots, which it will be soon, simply repot. Some of these orchids may also be grown on treefern on a mossy bed or slabs of bark, which should be misted daily all year round. 

The Nature of Cymbidiums

I love the different colors, sizes, and types of orchids my mom grows in her garden. I like the lavender ones, which by my researches are called Cymbidiums. And digging deeper, I have learned that this orchid is from the epiphytic species. The specie is characterized with their larger size when compared to most orchid species. They grow into tall large wax spikes of flowers in very nice pastel hues over their thin but durable strappy foliage.

Cymbidiums can be grown indoors and outdoors, thanks to their surfboard-shape green pseudobulb that stores the water and nutrients collected by their roots. Like any other epiphytic orchids, Cymbidiums are planted in coarse, easy draining material. Such planting bed allows water off easily so as to prevent their roots to suffocate and eventually rot.

Preparing Cymbidiums planting bed

Although you can find the perfect planting bed or materials for growing epiphytic orchids in the market, you can save on costs by preparing your own at home. All you will need are:

2/3 fine fir bark

1/3 fine redwood compost

Simply mix this two to resemble fine splinters and small chinks. Done, the mixture will provide an easy drainage for wastewater while holding some moisture just long enough for the roots to finally absorb it.

Another mixture to use as planting bed for your Cymbidiums is the Charcoal, Vermiculite & Moss Medium fusion. You will need:

1/3 horticultural charcoal chunks

1/3 vermiculite grains

1/3 of milled sphagnum peat moss

Combine all these materials. The vermiculite grains will lighten the mix while the peat moss holds the moisture.

Note: you can find finely milled peat moss in the market, but in the event there isn’t, you can just make your own by grinding up chunks of it in a utility blender.

Happy Green 2013!

Hello, world! Thank you very much for taking interest in my blog, The Green Thumb Club. 2012  was indeed a  good year because you have shared your precious time with me here, and I hope that you will continue to do that this 2013. Here's to a greener, cleaner 2013!

Planting Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes are staple food in so many places. It is rich in carbohydrates and is sugary, making it one of the energy foods necessary for you. Now, not all sweet potatoes are yummy maybe because of how they were planted or the planting soil is just so bland. To ensure that you will be able to get tasty and nutritious sweet potatoes, why don’t you try planting sweet potatoes on your own backyard?

But how would you do that? Actually, that is the easy part. You only need to make sure that your planting soil is fertile, has access to a lot of sunshine and water—this you can fake by industriously watering your plantlings—, plus you get a hold of really delicious sweet potatoes planting vines. These criteria would be a lot easier if you have a farmer friend who can provide you with the vines or someone he or she knows who have them.

Preparing your planting bed

The planting bed of sweet potatoes is a bit different from those you can make for other tall growing plants. You have to make miniature mountain-like soil heaps to make one. Or, you can choose to make a long range of this miniature mountain to make a long ‘paddy’ for your sweet potato vines.

Preparing your planting bed will also require a little ‘fertility’ task, especially if your soil is not soft and rich like the ones you see on rice fields because that is basically where these vines will grow best. You have to use do damage your backyard soil pattern, disturb it, and then water it until it becomes a little damp and rich-looking. Once you achieve this state, your planting bed is ready for your planting vines.

How to plant sweet potato vines

While you are still preparing the planting bed of your sweet potato vines, you should also be preparing the vines themselves. You have to let them mature by cutting them up at about a foot long and allow them to grow some roots on them by leaving them exposed to sunlight and water. When both your planting bed and vines are ready, you can start planting early—at least while the sun is not yet up.

The actual deed of planting sweet potatoes is also a little bit different from all other plants. This requires you to pick at least three vines and plant them into one mountain-heap soil. That by three’s way of planting your sweet potato vines allows you to expect at least one of them making it to the fruiting-bearing stage. Also, if all of these vines make it to the bearing stage, that would be the reason for making their planting beds into mountain-like heaps of soil.

Harvest period of sweet potatoes

Normally, farmers harvest their sweet potatoes after 3 months. While you are waiting for this period, you can weed out plants that may rob your plantlings with nutrients, water them up, and keep animals like chickens from eating their leaves. These are preferred but not actually required because sweet potatoes are not actually very vulnerable plants. In fact, you can just wait for 3 months and dig them up for crops. That is, if you can take looking on tall weeds growing on your mountain heaps.

You will be surprised how big your crops will be if they are given enough water and sunlight and the ample time to grow to their largest. After the harvest, clean your crops from sludge and cook the way you want it. Perhaps, Cook of the Hour can give you some recipes on how to cook your sweet potatoes. XXX

Planting Cassava

Cassava is not as delicate as other plants. It can be planted almost anywhere with ample supply of water and sunlight. It also needs very little care, and can even grow without any. But if you want better results, follow the planting procedure below.

1.        Make a planting bed. Cultivate the soil in the area you have chosen to plant your cassava. Remove weeds from the bed and water it everyday to let remaining weeds grow. Once they start growing, remove them. Do this continuously until you are sure that there are no more weeds lurking in the coarse soil of your planting bed. As you know, weeding from a growing plantling is dangerous. You might be able to remove the small roots that starting to sprout out from the plant.

2.        Prepare the cassava. Look for a good cassava stalk to use a planting source. Cut this stalk in as many portions as you can make from it. A good planting portion should be 8 to 10 inches.

3.        Planting the cassava. Make slits or planting cuts on the soil of your planting bed. Insert the cassava into that ‘soil cut’ until the inner end reaches a deeper area. That should be good enough.

4.        Nurturing your plant. After a day, small cassava leaves should come out from around the stalk portion. Cultivate the soil that’s inches from the plant.

5.        Watering the plant. The reason why you should plant cassava in an exposed soil area of your lawn or backyard is that they need plenty of water and sunlight. If there are many things that prevent them from getting what they need, their growth will not be as good as you want them to be. Trim other plants or trees that prevent sunlight from penetrating into the plant and soil, and water them everyday. If properly nourished, you will be able to harvest your planted cassava after a month or so.  

Tips to Live By When Gardening

1.        Cultivate the soil before planting.

2.        Remove weeds prior to planting.

3.        Once the small plants are transferred to the planting bed, refrain from removing weeds as this may damage the roots of your new plants.

4.        Sprinkle fertilizer at an average of 2 inches from the torso of the new plants.

5.        Water the plants everyday.