Organic Fertilizers: When and When Not Use 'Em

Organic Fertilizers are definitely the best type you can give your plants and soil, basically because they are all-natural and of course cheap. But there are some downsides when using them. Among are:

1. They can also serve as home to some pests. Decomposing plant clippings or animal manure can allow some organisms to breathe life. The trick is to keep these decomposing natural fertilizers from the plant at a safe distance. This way, even if some organisms would start to live within them, they wouldn't directly affect the plants and their growth.

2. They take a little while to be actually useful. Of course, animal manure and plant clippings need to decompose first so they can serve nutritious values to the soil and the plants living within the area. But once they have, you can rest assured that 100 percent of these nutrition are being shared to your soil and plants.

3. They smell. Because animal manure and plant clippings need to decompose first, they will really give off disgusting smell. But then, this is a greener means of fertilizing your soil and plants. Plus, it will only take for a while than the long-term damage that other synthetic fertilizers can do to your and your community.

Live green, use organic fertilizers!

Lia's Fruit and Veggie Cakes

Sinful? Nope. Lia's Cakes are basically baked and produced from fruits and vegetables. Selections include Avocado, Kalamansi (Lemon), Carrot, Ube, and Strawberry cakes among so many others. Surprisingly, these cakes are deliciously fused to feature the natural taste of their ingredients and just enough sweetness for the sweet tooth.

Lia's Cakes is situated along the Food Strip of Kapitolyo in Pasig City, parallel to Shaw Boulevard.

Seasonal Planting Calendar

Thank you to the original author of this seasonal planting calendar. I'm  sharing it now:

January

Plant bare root roses, trees, berries, and vegetables

Plant flowers: California Poppies, Daisy, Delphinium, Hollyhock, Snapdragon, Stock,

English Daisy, Candytuft, Columbine, Wildflowers, Alyssum, Primrose, Pansy, Sweet

Peas, Cineraria, Iceland Poppies, Viola

Plant vegetables (beets, carrots, chard, onions, lettuce, radish, spinach, cabbage, parsley,

cauliflower and leeks

February

Begin ordering Daylilies and Dahlias

Cut back and divide some perennials: Daylilies, Erigeron, Stachys, Iris, Nepeta,

Geranium, Lamium, Ajuga, Alstroemeria, Agapanthus, and most ground covers

Plant annuals (Alyssum, Bacopa, Petunias, Nemesia, Snapdragon, Hollyhock, Candytuft,

Felicia, Ranunculus, Petunias, Marguerite Daisy, Cobbity Daisy, Euryops).

Plant bulbs (Lilies, Calla Lily, Canna, Dahlias, Gladiolus, Tuberous Begonias).

Plant Camilleas and Azaleas, Fuchsia baskets, flowering shrubs (Lilac, Mock Orange,

India Hawthorne and Viburnum), bare root Roses, trees, and berries.

Plant vegetables (chard, carrots, beets, cauliflower, cabbage, spinach, radish, onions,

parsley, lettuce, leeks and peppers).

Plant spring blooming perennials (Alstroemeria, Coral Bells, Dianthus, Diascia,

Foxglove, Violets, Brunnera, Campanula, Catmint, Scabiosa, Marguerites, Poppy,

evergreen Candytuft, Linaria purpurea, Columbine, Dicentra, Delphinium, Bergenia).

Plant vines Vines: Hardenbergia voilacea ‘Happy Wanderer’, or ‘Rosea’, Jasminum

polyanthum, Clytostoma callistegioides (Lavender Trumpet Vine) Carolina Jessamine

(Gelsemium sempervirens),

March

Plant low water ground covers as an alternative to lawns: Try ‘Huntingon Carpet’

Rosemary, Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi ‘Wood’s Compact’), several cultivars

of Lantana (L. montevidens) and a variety of Juniper, including (J. conferta, ‘Blue

Pacific’, ‘Emerald Sea’, J. communis ‘Mondap’, and J. horizontalis ‘Monber’.

April

Annuals: plant or sow seeds of Ageratum, Lobelia, Marigold, Petunia, Phlox, Verbena,

Sweet Alyssum, Zinnia, Impatiens, Globe Amaranth, Portulaca, Stachys and Sunflower.

Plant bare root deciduous plants, flowering vines, fruit trees, Roses, Tomatoes and

Strawberries, culinary and medicinal herbs, Calendulas, Dianthus, Forget-me-Not,

Pansies, Cosmos, Impatiens, Marigolds, Petunias, Sunflowers and Zinnias.

Plant frost tender plants such as Bougainvillea, Citrus, Geraniums, Hibiscus, Tecomaria,

Tibouchina, Grewia, Limonium, and Datura.

Plant low maintenance perennials: Armeria, Catmint, Coreopsis, Gaillardia, Erigeron,

Heuchera, Penstemon, Rudbeckia, Yarrow, Sedum, Delphinium, Echinops, Guara,

Verbena, Scabiosa, Diascia, Heuchera, Scaveola and Dianthus.

Brighten shady spots with colorful plantings of Astilbe, Begonia, Bergenia, Chinese

Foxglove, Impatiens, Lady’s Mantle, Lamium, Cineraria, Coleus, Columbine, Coral Bells,

Campanula, Brunnera, Cranesbill and Geranium.

May

Plant a cutting garden of Alstroemeria, Lavender, Limonium perezii, Purple Coneflower,

Shasta Daisy, Yarrow, Scabiosa, Mexican Sunflower, Gloriosa Daisy, Coreopsis and

Gaillardia.

Plant Camellias and Rhododendrons, and Canna.

Plant vegetables (Cucumber, Eggplant, Peppers, Tomatoes and Squash including

Pumpkins).

Plant watermelon

Plant Japanese Maples

Sow seeds of bush and pole beans, corn, summer annuals and vegetables

  

June

Plant Artemisia, Dusty Miller, Saliva, Begonias, Gladiola and Dahlias.

Plant Citrus

Plant herbs

Plant warm season crops (beans, cucumbers, peppers, squash, tomatoes, etc.

Plant low maintenance, low water shrubs: Tree Mallow, New Zealand Flax hybrids,

Lavender, Plumbago, Rockrose, Russian Sage, Cape Mallow, Euphorbia, Ceanothus,

Jerusalem Sage.

Plant summer bloomers: Globe Amaranth, Vinca, Scarlet Sage, Zinnias, Sunflower,

Portulaca and Verbena.

Plant annuals and perennials favorites, Coreopsis, Gentian Sage, Gaillardia, Penstemon,

Verbena ‘Homestead Purple’, Rudbeckia, Statice, Salvia, Summer Phlox, Mealy cup and

Russian Sage.

July

Plant fall vegetables (beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, green onion, spinach, peas,

winter squash, bush beans, turnips).

Plant gopher resistant plants (Plum, Japanese Maple ‘Senkaki’ and ‘Koshimino’, Lemon,

Pomegranate, Bottlebrush, Breath of Heaven, Borage, Butterfly Bush, Ceanothus,

Escallonia, Grevillea, Euonymus japonica, Fuchsia, Heavenly Bamboo, Hydrangea,

India hawthorn, Lavender, Rose, Lily, Foxglove, Salvia, Rosemary, Strawberry Tree,

Catnip, Coral Bells, Ferns, Lantana, Oleander, Penstemon, Shasta Daisy, Fortnight Lily,

Fibrous Begonia, Agapanthus and Vinca).

August

Plant cool season crops (Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Spinach, Swiss Chard, and

Lettuce).

Plant shrubs (Lavatera, Butterfly Bush, Plumbago, Princess Flower, Cape Fuchsia and

Oleander).

Plant Salvia and Sweet Peas.

September

Buy bulbs (Anemones, Crocus, Daffodils, Dutch Iris, Hyacinths, Ranunculus, Tulips,

Freesias, etc.).

Buy trees noted for fall color when color is showing.

Plant bulbs (Freesia, Grape Hyacinth, Amaryllis, Ranunculus, Anemone, and Dwarf

Narcissus).

Plant natives (Bush Anemone, Arctostaphylos, Fremontodendron, Pacific Coast Iris,

Sticky Monkey Flower, Mahonia, Penstemon Salvia clevelandii, Western Columbine and

Heuchera).

Plant cool season annuals after mid-month (Calendula, Forget-me-Not, Poppies,

Ornamental Cabbage and Kale, Pansies, Primrose, Larkspur, Violas, Stock, Snapdragon,

Sweet peas, Toadflax, Cineraria, and Nemesia).

Plant cool season vegetables (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, beets, carrots, lettuce,

parsley, chard, chives, radishes, spinach, sugar/snap peas, onions), ornamental cabbage

and kale and salad mix seeds).

Sow wildflower seeds.

October

Divide perennials such as Aster, Calla, Daisy, Yarrow, Helianthus, Rudbeckia, Daylily

and Bellflower.

Plant annuals: Nemesia, Ranunculus and Snapdragon.

Plant berry producing plants to support birds and wildlife over winter (Barberry,

Mahonia, Nandina, Strawberry Tree, Cotoneaster, Holly and Pyracantha).

Plant bulb covers using cool season annuals (Violas, Forget-me-Not and Primrose).

Plant bulbs that naturalize (Daffodils, Muscari, Ornamental Allium, Tulips and Scilla).

Scatter bulbs by hand over planting areas to create a natural look.

Plant California natives when rains are predicted.

Plant early blooming perennials (Campanula, Columbine, Verbascum, Delphinium,

Foxglove, Candytuft, Coral Bells).

Plant groundcovers to cover banks and large areas (Arctostaphylos ‘Emerald Carpet’ and

A. uva-ursi, Ceanothus, Coyote Bush, Juniper (J. chinensis, J. procumbens and J.

horizontalis, Myoporum, and prostrate Rosemary).

Plant winter annuals (Iceland Poppies, Sweet Peas, Forget-me-Not, Primroses,

Cyclamen, Violas, and Pansies).

Sow wildflower seeds.

Plant sod lawns.

November

Divide perennials that are overgrown

Plant bulbs. Chill Tulips and Hyacinths for 4-6 weeks before planting in December.

Plant a butterfly garden (Butterfly Bush, Mallow, Milkweed, native grasses of Carex and

Festuca, Penstemon, Willow, and Buckwheat.

Plant Crape Myrtle, Japanese Maples, Liquidambar, ornamental Pear and Persimmon,

deciduous Azaleas, Oak leaf Hydrangea, Smoke Tree, Viburnum and Wisteria.

Plant greens (Mustard, Chard, Lettuce and Kale).

Plant herbs (Chives, Marjoram, Parsley, Thyme, Sage, Rosemary and Oregano).

Plant native shrubs (Oregon Grape, Pacific Wax Myrtle, Ribes speciosum, Salvia

clevelandii, Toyon, Arctostaphylos and Bush Anemone).

Plant perennials (Alstroemeria, Campanula, Columbine, Geraniums, Scaveola, Coral

Bells, Delphinium, Lamium, Oriental Poppy, Penstemon, perennial Foxglove, Phlox,

Salvia, Artemisia, Catmint, Dianthus, Diascia and Scaveola).

Plant spring flowering bulbs. Add 1t bone meal to soil in each hole. Its high phosphorous

content contributes to root growth.

Plant sweet peas and wildflowers (California Poppy, Clarkia and Lupine).

December

Plant spring flowering bulbs: Tulips and Hyacinths

Plant Cyclamen, Camellias, Roses, and Living Christmas trees

DIY Welcome Vine Arcs

Secure, gorgeous steel gates are probably one of the integral parts of a modern home these days. They are primarily keeping thieves off properties however newer designs also add aesthetics to the overall perspective of most homes nowadays. But before they became an important constants in building and securing homes, we were all once introduced to ‘friendly’ vine arcs that welcome visitors and guests. And though these arcs are truly lovely, they have either become too old fashioned or gallant for modern living. Also, there is the undying issues on burglary. This is why most of the youngsters these days will no longer be able to see the old home styles—no gates, no alarms, just homey and welcoming.

Good thing is that I was able to live in those days and I can still remember our old vine ‘welcome’ arcs that stood in place of the gates now. Unfortunately, I was not able to save any photo to show but I can still remember how they are planted and formed. Here is a simple step by step development of a do-it-yourself welcome vine arc:

Step 1: Choosing the vine or type of plant.

-          There are different types of plants, especially vines that can be used in making welcome arcs. The most used is the bougainvillea because of its beautiful flowers. There are plenty to choose from, but pick something that can grow best with your resources.

Step 2: Planting the vine.

-          Planting a vine is very easy because these are plants that are not very picky of planting methods. You can use seeds and sprinkle it on the cultivated soil or cut a sap for grafting purposes. The not so easy part is in developing the arc, which design will rely at this stage too. As a matter of fact, you can only plant the vine when you are already sure as to where and how wide apart you want the 2 columns to appear.

Step 3: Developing an arc structure.

-          Once the vine sprouted or new vine blooms from a grafted plant, it is time to help them grow up by placing structures where they would be able to creep on. Most landscapers use post constructed chicken wire posts for the vine to crawl on, but back in the days, we just used bamboos that will help the vines shooting up to the height where we want the two columns bend and meet to create the arc. This way, it costs less but create the same finished product.

Step 4: Maintenance.

-          Throughout the growing phase, the vines will surely need some guide, cutting and cleaning. We used to loosely roll the vines over each other which makes the arc a lot stronger and well-formed.

The best part of this is when your arc is already fully developed and the flowers start to bloom. 

Plant Types

Like humans, plants are dynamic species. They may be classified in different ways, such as the structure, the years they live, how they physically appear and so on. Here are the most general categories known of them for easier identification:

Cacti (Cactus)

Cactus is a drought plant. It can live in the hottest and driest places but may die in very wet areas. It has green, succulent stems where it stores water and spines all over them for protection against other species.

Flowers and Herbs

Herbs have many uses in everyday life. Among these are for medicinal, culinary, and spiritual uses. In most medicinal uses, all parts of herbs are used. The same is true when used for spiritual functions. But in culinary, only the leaves and/or flowers of the herb are usually used.

Shrubs and Bushes

These types of plants can be distinguished by its height. Shrubs and bushes are usually less than 6 meters tall and are woody. They may also have a lot of stems and covered with flowers of all shapes and sizes.

Trees

Trees are the harder version of shrubs and bushes, and they are available everywhere in the world. They are tall, huge, and highly useful in everyday life. Trees are necessary in preventing any chances of soil erosion and responsible for generating clean oxygen that we humans use to breathe.

Vegetables

Vegetable may sometimes be classified under shrubs, bushes, or herbs due to its structure but the name is naturally used as a culinary term. Vegetables are parts of plants like flower buds, stems, seeds, and fruits among so many others. They are edible and have many uses in culinary dishes.

What Dendrobium Orchid are You Growing?

There is another type of orchids my mom grows in her garden, and this time it is white and it blossomed completely just today. My mom calls it Dendrobiums (pronounced den-dro-bee-urn). She says this one is specie that grows best in the kind of climate we have—more than half of the year with sunlight. I took her word for it, but I dug deeper (as usual).

I have come across several species of Dendrobium. There are ones that originated from the South East Asia, stretching from Northern India to islands off the East coast like New Guinea and Australia like Polynesia. The climate in these areas is always hot at sea level and is without any seasonal variation. If that is so, our white Dendrobiums might have been gotten from these species.

But I have also come across a different set of Dendrobiums. These species originated from the south of the Tropic of Capricorn and the north of the Tropic of Cancer. These areas have access to greater range of climate, including colder and drier winters and warm wet summers. To grow the Dendrobiums at their best, the area where they originated should then be known.

Dendrobium, the second largest orchid genus

To date, more than a thousand species of Dendrobium are known but there are still a lot more that are in the process of discovery basically in the highlands of New Guinea. This makes them the second to Bulbophyllum, the largest orchid genus in the world.

Both the shape and form of Dendrobium stems and leaves come in different size, style,a and color. What makes them all alike is the flowers’ pattern however varied their range of size, from tiny to huge. Every Dendrobium has the base of its sepals fused to the column and the lip base’ foot, thereby forming a mentum or 'chin' that generally houses its nectar.

Scientists have used three cultural headings to categorize Dendrobium. They are the Nobile (pronounced no-bill-ay) type or Himalayan plants, New Guinea plants, and Australian plants, here are some of the characteristics that make each of these plants distinct:

The Nobile or Himalayan Dendrobiums

Dendrobiums originating from Himalayas are the easiest to grow, but they are also the most difficult to bloom on a regular basis. Once they bloom, their flowers are remarkable in colors that range from white to purple and pink. The lip is also spectacular with its often beautifully marked contrasting colors, making the entire flower a magnificent specimen to watch.

There also those that are in colors brown and yellow, but lately, Yamamoto hybrids are getting a lot of attention for their rainbow colors.

So far, these species are grown to their best in warm with bright, cold but dry winters. But to ensure that you are growing them at their best, take note of their culture:

November to February

Daytime temperatures can drop to 40° - 45°. During these months, they should be provided with plenty of light and air movement but not water or feed.

March to May or June

These months are warmer and moister in conditions. These are the times when Dendrobium buds develop and then new growths tend to appear. Sparingly watering the orchids until the new shoots have grown their good roots is best.

June to November

These months are warm and very wet, which is associated with Monsoon. Low strength, high nitrogen feed should be administered in the months of April and May. When maximum growth is being see, feed weekly. In November, feed the orchids with high potassium.

Tip: To get flowers from Himalayan Dendrobiums, you need to dry and cool them during the winter. Dendrobiums from Himalayas’ lower altitudes need less harsh winter but still dry.

The New Guinea Dendrobiums

Growing New Guinea Dendrobiums is a bit of a challenge, but there are a few species that can be grown with ease. Among these are the Dendrobium oberrans in cool climatic conditions, D. lawesii or D. antennatum in intermediate climatic conditions, and D. atroviolaceorn or D. bigibbum in warm climatic conditions, and thus, they are best for those who have just begun enjoying planting orchids for a hobby or business. Save the more challenging ones for later.

Two of the most outstanding species known from this area, although they are also found in Australia, are D. bigibbum (D. phalaenopsis) and D. Canaliculatum. The former can often be located growing on rocks, while the latter on the paperbark tree trunks.

The climate in the area varies with altitude. The mountainous areas offer cool, wet misty nights and mornings followed by warmer bright days. The exquisite cool and intermediate miniatures like D. cuthbertsonii grow in these places. They should never be left to dry and without dilute fertilizer. The river valleys between the mountain ranges of the area are warmer and wetter. These places house the most exotic D. lasianthera of the Sepik River basin and many Latouria types with longlasting flowers. They all need generous feeding and watering all year long. The southern plains are wetter and very warm all year through. There is also seasonal rainfall variation with a wetter summer and drier winter in the area.

Australian Dendrobiums

Australian Dendrobium Kingianum and relatives are the easiest to grow from this area. They grow their pseudobulbs or canes at any length, from 5cm. to 30cm. Tall, and they are thin, spindly and tough. They have 2 to 4 leaves atop each cane that are narrowly oval. They bloom in loose sprays at the tops of old and new canes during late winters and early springs. There will be two to ten flowers in shades of purple or pink on each spray, each measuring 1- 3 cm. across. The can also grow taller and bloom with yellow, cream or white flowers.

The Austrian Dendrobiums are so easy to grow that they often regrow on their own. Potting is therefore necessary to get new plantlets or keikis moved from their parents. Just make sure that this is done after the plantlings developed their roots completely. You can also choose to leave them where they are and allow them to blossom together with their parents. For their culture give intermediate temperatures and drier conditions than other Dendrobiums. Spray once a week and water generously in the spring and autumn with dilute feed. A few cold weeks in winter (down to 45°F), will encourage flowering.

Potting

Dendrobiums can be replanted in small pots where their roots can be confined. You can find different potting beds for this in the market, but youo can also make yoour own out of bark, perlag and charcoal mixture. This trio makes an easy drain for your orchids.

When the potting bed becomes soggy or full of roots, which it will be soon, simply repot. Some of these orchids may also be grown on treefern on a mossy bed or slabs of bark, which should be misted daily all year round. 

The Nature of Cymbidiums

I love the different colors, sizes, and types of orchids my mom grows in her garden. I like the lavender ones, which by my researches are called Cymbidiums. And digging deeper, I have learned that this orchid is from the epiphytic species. The specie is characterized with their larger size when compared to most orchid species. They grow into tall large wax spikes of flowers in very nice pastel hues over their thin but durable strappy foliage.

Cymbidiums can be grown indoors and outdoors, thanks to their surfboard-shape green pseudobulb that stores the water and nutrients collected by their roots. Like any other epiphytic orchids, Cymbidiums are planted in coarse, easy draining material. Such planting bed allows water off easily so as to prevent their roots to suffocate and eventually rot.

Preparing Cymbidiums planting bed

Although you can find the perfect planting bed or materials for growing epiphytic orchids in the market, you can save on costs by preparing your own at home. All you will need are:

2/3 fine fir bark

1/3 fine redwood compost

Simply mix this two to resemble fine splinters and small chinks. Done, the mixture will provide an easy drainage for wastewater while holding some moisture just long enough for the roots to finally absorb it.

Another mixture to use as planting bed for your Cymbidiums is the Charcoal, Vermiculite & Moss Medium fusion. You will need:

1/3 horticultural charcoal chunks

1/3 vermiculite grains

1/3 of milled sphagnum peat moss

Combine all these materials. The vermiculite grains will lighten the mix while the peat moss holds the moisture.

Note: you can find finely milled peat moss in the market, but in the event there isn’t, you can just make your own by grinding up chunks of it in a utility blender.

Happy Green 2013!

Hello, world! Thank you very much for taking interest in my blog, The Green Thumb Club. 2012  was indeed a  good year because you have shared your precious time with me here, and I hope that you will continue to do that this 2013. Here's to a greener, cleaner 2013!